Hamster Care
Our hamsters have been bred for temperament and have been handled regularly from a young age; therefore they are tame enough for even small children to handle and are easy to look after. However, there are some things you will need to know.
Hamster Home
Syrian hamsters need to live alone, or fighting will occur. They should have a cage with a minimum 2sq ft of floor space. The cage can be made of plastic or wire, but the flooring of the cage should be plastic as wire floors can trap a hamster’s feet. You can get cages with several tiers – it is best to make sure that in this case there is no way a hamster can fall right down through the levels or fall on to anything that could cause them damage, and that any tubes connecting the levels are large enough for a fully grown Syrian hamster to fit through. I would not personally recommend Rotostak or Crittertrail style cages as the tubes are small, and also the ventilation in these cages is less than ideal. The Savic Cambridge is my favoured cage currently on the market. If this is too pricey (@ approx. £40), Wilkinsons do a good bargain three tier cage at £19.99. Also look out for bargains on eBay, but always watch out for the quality of them – check the dimensions and whether they have wire floors or small tubes.
Toys
You should provide toys for the hamster so that they do not get bored. Toys are available online or at good pet stores. Most hamsters enjoy running on their exercise wheel; however most wheels supplied with cages are too small for a fully grown Syrian hamster. They are also often noisy so if a hamster is to be kept in a bedroom, I would recommend a quieter wheel. Good brands are the Wodent Wheel, Jumbo Rolly, Comfort Wheel or Silent Spinner. The Rolly and Comfort Wheel can be fairly noisy but are a good size. You should never give a hamster a wheel made of wire bars, as again their legs can get caught in it and be seriously damaged. We use the Silent Spinner.
Your hamster may also enjoy a plastic ball to run around in outside the cage. You should look for a clear ball if possible as it makes it easier for the hamster to see where it’s going, and one that is a solid sphere rather than in two pieces, as those in two pieces can come apart if a hamster bangs into something hard. Some hamsters work out how to open the door to the ball, so a strip of Sellotape across the door of the ball while they are running in it is a good idea. You shouldn’t leave the hamster in the ball for too long without a break, about 30 minutes is the maximum comfortable time without water.
Your hamster may also enjoy a plastic ball to run around in outside the cage. You should look for a clear ball if possible as it makes it easier for the hamster to see where it’s going, and one that is a solid sphere rather than in two pieces, as those in two pieces can come apart if a hamster bangs into something hard. Some hamsters work out how to open the door to the ball, so a strip of Sellotape across the door of the ball while they are running in it is a good idea. You shouldn’t leave the hamster in the ball for too long without a break, about 30 minutes is the maximum comfortable time without water.
Bedding
Wood shavings are perfectly fine for hamsters, I personally use the plain wood shavings. Alternatives are paper bedding (Carefresh is an example) but this is more expensive. There should be a layer of shavings across the entire bottom of the cage, approximately one inch thick. Hamsters also like to make a nest – you can buy “Safe Bed” bedding material from pet stores, if you choose to do this please avoid the fluffy bedding as it can cause hamsters to get tangled in it and cause damage to their limbs. Paper bedding is safest. Personally I always buy a pack of the cheapest tissue toilet rolls that I can find and shred those as bedding – it is much cheaper and the hamsters love it.
You should remove any soiled bedding that you notice on a daily basis and clean the cage once a week using a spray disinfectant suitable for use on animal cages, which can be bought from any good pet shop.
You should remove any soiled bedding that you notice on a daily basis and clean the cage once a week using a spray disinfectant suitable for use on animal cages, which can be bought from any good pet shop.
Handling
Our hamsters are used to human contact, however hamsters will still bite by instinct in certain situations. For example, if they feel endangered – if you have attempted to pick them up when they are asleep or newly woken up – they may nip. It is always best to make your hamster aware of your presence before attempting to handle them, as they have poor eyesight and can be taken by surprise easily. Always wash your hands before handling a hamster – as they can’t see very well they may nip if you smell of food.
Please give your new hamster at least 24 hours to settle into their new cage before trying to handle them, it will be a big move for them! To get your hamster used to you, it is worth talking to them quietly through the bars so they get used to your presence, maybe even giving them some tissue for their bed that you have had next to your skin so that they get used to your smell.
When you hold your hamster for the first time, it may be nervous as it’s in a new cage and a new place. The best way to do this is to open the cage door, and put your hand in flat (if possible) to see if they are confident enough to walk on to your hand. Do not make any sudden movements or touch the hamster before it knows you are there. If it walks on to your hand, you may feel confident in scooping the hamster up and holding him, although you should not hold him far from the floor in case of any sudden jumps or wriggles. It can take a bit of getting used to! I recommend remaining seated the first few times that you get your hamster out of the cage.
The best way to pick up a hamster is to let it walk on to your hand or to scoop it up gently, supporting its feet. Do not make a grab for a hamster or pull them around, or leave their back legs dangling.
Please give your new hamster at least 24 hours to settle into their new cage before trying to handle them, it will be a big move for them! To get your hamster used to you, it is worth talking to them quietly through the bars so they get used to your presence, maybe even giving them some tissue for their bed that you have had next to your skin so that they get used to your smell.
When you hold your hamster for the first time, it may be nervous as it’s in a new cage and a new place. The best way to do this is to open the cage door, and put your hand in flat (if possible) to see if they are confident enough to walk on to your hand. Do not make any sudden movements or touch the hamster before it knows you are there. If it walks on to your hand, you may feel confident in scooping the hamster up and holding him, although you should not hold him far from the floor in case of any sudden jumps or wriggles. It can take a bit of getting used to! I recommend remaining seated the first few times that you get your hamster out of the cage.
The best way to pick up a hamster is to let it walk on to your hand or to scoop it up gently, supporting its feet. Do not make a grab for a hamster or pull them around, or leave their back legs dangling.
Food
We feed our hamsters Harry Hamster mix, available from many pet shops and veterinary surgeries (not Pets at Home, who make their own brand). We buy ours from Wolfits in Tonbridge. I recommend a good quality dry mix supplemented with fresh vegetables and fruit. You can buy hamster treats from pet shops, however these can be very sugary and should only be given occasionally.
When feeding fresh food, give it in small quantities so it does not rot in the cage, and remove any leftovers regularly, including from the hamster’s nest (they will tend to store food in their nest).
You should feed hamsters in a heavy ceramic food bowl that cannot be easily tipped up, and make sure you also provide a water bottle with a constant supply of fresh water.
The following list includes foods that are safe and not safe for hamsters to eat:
Safe:
Broccoli
Cucumber
Banana
Grapes
Biscuits
Dog biscuits
Prunes
Breakfast Cereals
Cake (not chocolate)
Toast
Nuts
Cheese
Boiled Potatoes
Boiled Egg
Scrambled Egg
Cooked Chicken
Currants
Avocado
Blackberries
Blueberries
Brussel Sprouts
Cabbage
Carrot
Cauliflower
Celery
Cherries (stoned)
Courgettes
Corn on the cob
Dates
Figs
Green Beans
Kiwi Fruit
Mango
Mange tout
Marrow
Melon
Parsley
Peach
Pear
Peas
Plums (stoned)
Raspberries
Strawberries
Swede Turnip
Water Chestnut
Yoghurt
Not Safe:
Chocolate (except that which is made for small animals)
Onion
Garlic
Raw Kidney Beans
Sweets/Toffee
Many wild flowers
Rhubarb
Many Leaves from trees
Raw potato
Tomato Leaves
Rabbit Mix
Evergreen Plants
When feeding fresh food, give it in small quantities so it does not rot in the cage, and remove any leftovers regularly, including from the hamster’s nest (they will tend to store food in their nest).
You should feed hamsters in a heavy ceramic food bowl that cannot be easily tipped up, and make sure you also provide a water bottle with a constant supply of fresh water.
The following list includes foods that are safe and not safe for hamsters to eat:
Safe:
Broccoli
Cucumber
Banana
Grapes
Biscuits
Dog biscuits
Prunes
Breakfast Cereals
Cake (not chocolate)
Toast
Nuts
Cheese
Boiled Potatoes
Boiled Egg
Scrambled Egg
Cooked Chicken
Currants
Avocado
Blackberries
Blueberries
Brussel Sprouts
Cabbage
Carrot
Cauliflower
Celery
Cherries (stoned)
Courgettes
Corn on the cob
Dates
Figs
Green Beans
Kiwi Fruit
Mango
Mange tout
Marrow
Melon
Parsley
Peach
Pear
Peas
Plums (stoned)
Raspberries
Strawberries
Swede Turnip
Water Chestnut
Yoghurt
Not Safe:
Chocolate (except that which is made for small animals)
Onion
Garlic
Raw Kidney Beans
Sweets/Toffee
Many wild flowers
Rhubarb
Many Leaves from trees
Raw potato
Tomato Leaves
Rabbit Mix
Evergreen Plants
Hamster Health
Wet tail
One of the most severe diseases that a Syrian hamster can get is called “wet-tail”. This is a bacterial infection which can be caused by stress and can be fatal, so it’s important to be aware of the signs. The symptoms of wet tail can be confused with diarrhoea – if your hamster has a dirty or smelly backside or tail area, it is safest to take them straight to a vet. The hamster is likely to also be lethargic, dehydrated and hunched up. The condition can be treated with antibiotics but only a vet can diagnose and treat this correctly. As the condition is fast acting and severe, you must get them to the vet straight away in order to give them the best chance of recovery.
Overgrown claws and teeth
Occasionally hamsters’ claws and teeth can become overgrown and may need trimming by a vet. You can provide them with wood chews or dog biscuits to keep their teeth in check. Sometimes, allowing your hamster to run on some bird cage sandpaper can help to shorten the claws, but you should supervise them while on the sandpaper to make sure they do not get sore. If a hamster is not eating due to overgrown teeth, while you wait for a vet appointment you can feed them soft foods such as mashed potato (no butter or salt) or baby food (no onion or garlic ingredients).
Itchiness and skin problems
Hamsters can contract mange and ringworm, symptoms may include red skin or bald patches. This can be treated by a vet. All hamsters have small bald patches on each side, these are their scent glands on their hips and this is normal. Hamsters can get fleas from other household pets, this is not common but can be treated with a small animal flea powder. They can also get mites, which can be seen as small black dots in the fur. If the fur loss is extreme and the skin is scaly, this can be Cushings disease, which unfortunately is incurable and eventually a hamster suffering with this will have to be put to sleep.
Colds
If you have a cold, do not handle your hamster as they can catch human colds. If they are sniffly, provide plenty of warm bedding and keep them in a warm place until they are feeling better. If it does not clear up, it could be an allergy, so try replacing their bedding with a different brand.
Smelly hamster
Hamsters are generally extremely clean animals. Some can even be trained to use a potty (either a small pot or dish, or a plastic litter tray available from pet shops for the purpose). Make sure you clean the whole cage every week, if the hamster still smells then clean out the litter around the toilet area every day.
Female hamsters can occasionally emit a musky smell, this is when they are in season (every four days), some seem to be more noticeably in season than others.
One of the most severe diseases that a Syrian hamster can get is called “wet-tail”. This is a bacterial infection which can be caused by stress and can be fatal, so it’s important to be aware of the signs. The symptoms of wet tail can be confused with diarrhoea – if your hamster has a dirty or smelly backside or tail area, it is safest to take them straight to a vet. The hamster is likely to also be lethargic, dehydrated and hunched up. The condition can be treated with antibiotics but only a vet can diagnose and treat this correctly. As the condition is fast acting and severe, you must get them to the vet straight away in order to give them the best chance of recovery.
Overgrown claws and teeth
Occasionally hamsters’ claws and teeth can become overgrown and may need trimming by a vet. You can provide them with wood chews or dog biscuits to keep their teeth in check. Sometimes, allowing your hamster to run on some bird cage sandpaper can help to shorten the claws, but you should supervise them while on the sandpaper to make sure they do not get sore. If a hamster is not eating due to overgrown teeth, while you wait for a vet appointment you can feed them soft foods such as mashed potato (no butter or salt) or baby food (no onion or garlic ingredients).
Itchiness and skin problems
Hamsters can contract mange and ringworm, symptoms may include red skin or bald patches. This can be treated by a vet. All hamsters have small bald patches on each side, these are their scent glands on their hips and this is normal. Hamsters can get fleas from other household pets, this is not common but can be treated with a small animal flea powder. They can also get mites, which can be seen as small black dots in the fur. If the fur loss is extreme and the skin is scaly, this can be Cushings disease, which unfortunately is incurable and eventually a hamster suffering with this will have to be put to sleep.
Colds
If you have a cold, do not handle your hamster as they can catch human colds. If they are sniffly, provide plenty of warm bedding and keep them in a warm place until they are feeling better. If it does not clear up, it could be an allergy, so try replacing their bedding with a different brand.
Smelly hamster
Hamsters are generally extremely clean animals. Some can even be trained to use a potty (either a small pot or dish, or a plastic litter tray available from pet shops for the purpose). Make sure you clean the whole cage every week, if the hamster still smells then clean out the litter around the toilet area every day.
Female hamsters can occasionally emit a musky smell, this is when they are in season (every four days), some seem to be more noticeably in season than others.
